curving roads carved into jagged cliffs so steep i covered my eyes. the hundred year old stone bridge now unsafe for our rental car. emerald ivy draping over the terracotta roof (the main reason i chose this temporary home base). crystal blue water running down from the peak i was too afraid to climb. cheeses, chorizo, and carved fruits spread in a small glass room. the lone vinyl record of a portuguese guitarist playing on repeat. homemade vanilla poundcake hand delivered on white porcelain. a pair of mothers watching over their ducklings in the pond made just for them. ripe groundcherries and fresh oregano plucked for us by a retired pilot on a tour of the grounds: The Captain’s Mill, Madeira, Portugal.